Fes el-Bali, Morocco•1,000+ Years Old
Chouara Tannery Guide
Over a thousand years of leather-making tradition. The most iconic sight in Fes -- a vivid mosaic of stone dye pits where craftsmen still tan and dye leather using the same ancient techniques as their medieval predecessors.
Open 8 AM - 6 PM
1,000+ Years Old
Natural Dyes Only
Free Viewing
Best: Morning
A Thousand Years of Leather
The Chouara Tannery is the oldest, largest, and most famous of the three medieval tanneries in Fes (the others being Sidi Moussa and Ain Azliten). Dating back to at least the 11th century, it has been in continuous operation for over a thousand years, making it one of the oldest industrial sites on earth still functioning in essentially the same way.
The tannery consists of hundreds of stone vessels -- some round, some rectangular -- arranged in a vast honeycomb pattern in the heart of the medina. These vats are filled with a rainbow of natural dyes: poppy for red, indigo for blue, saffron for yellow, cedar wood for brown, henna for orange, and mint for green. From the viewing terraces above, the effect is of a giant artist's palette dropped into the medieval city.
What makes Chouara truly remarkable is that the process has changed almost nothing in a millennium. No modern chemicals are used. Workers still soften hides with pigeon dung, still dye them by treading in the vats by foot, and still dry them on the rooftops and hillsides of the city. It is a living museum of pre-industrial craft, operating in the 21st century exactly as it did in the 11th.
How Leather is Made Traditionally
The entire tanning process takes approximately 2-3 weeks from raw hide to finished leather. Every step is done by hand using natural materials -- no modern chemicals, machines, or shortcuts. The methods are virtually identical to those used when the tannery was founded over 1,000 years ago.
1
Soaking & Cleaning
2-3 daysRaw hides are soaked in large vats of cow urine, quicklime, and water for several days. This loosens the hair and fat from the skin. Workers then scrape the hides by hand to remove all remaining hair and tissue.
2
Softening with Pigeon Dung
3-5 daysThe cleaned hides are placed in vats filled with a mixture of pigeon droppings and water. The ammonia in the pigeon dung softens the leather and makes it supple. This ancient technique has been used for centuries and is one reason for the tannery's powerful smell.
3
Natural Dyeing
1-3 daysThe prepared hides are immersed in stone vats filled with natural dyes: poppy flower for red, indigo for blue, cedar wood for brown, henna for orange, mint for green, and saffron for yellow. Workers tread the hides in the dye by foot, like pressing grapes.
4
Drying
1-3 daysThe dyed hides are spread on rooftops and hillsides around the medina to dry in the sun. From the Merenid Tombs viewpoint, you can see hundreds of colorful hides drying on the slopes above the city.
5
Finishing
VariesOnce dry, the leather is worked by hand to soften it further, then cut and sewn into finished products: bags, jackets, babouche slippers, belts, wallets, cushion covers, and poufs. The entire process uses no modern chemicals.
Natural Dye Colors
Red:Poppy flowers • Blue:Indigo plant • Yellow:Saffron • Brown:Cedar wood • Orange:Henna • Green:Mint • Black: Antimony (kohl)
Best Viewing Spots
Terasse de Tanneurs (Main Terrace)
Best overall viewAccess: Through leather shops on the north side
The most popular viewing point, accessed through leather shops above the tannery. Shopkeepers will offer you a sprig of mint to hold under your nose and guide you to the terrace. The view directly overlooks the dye pits from above.
Tip: You are not obligated to buy anything, but browsing is expected. The terrace access is technically free, though a small tip (10-20 MAD) is appreciated.
Number 10 Chouara
Excellent elevated viewAccess: Northeast corner of the tannery
A leather shop with one of the highest terraces, offering a panoramic view of the entire tannery operation. Less crowded than the main terrace and the shop has a good selection of quality leather goods.
Tip: Tell the shopkeeper you want to see the tannery from the terrace. They will guide you up. The view here is slightly more elevated than the main terrace.
Street Level Views
Partial but atmosphericAccess: Alleys surrounding the tannery
Several narrow alleys around the tannery offer glimpses through doorways and gaps in walls. These views are more candid and atmospheric, showing workers up close in the vats.
Tip: Follow the smell. Seriously -- the closer you get, the stronger the aroma. The alleys to the east of the main tannery entrance offer the best street-level glimpses.
When to Visit
Best
Morning (9-11 AM)
The ideal time. Workers are most active, the light is overhead for best photography, and the smell is more manageable in cooler morning air. The dye colors are most vivid in morning light.
Good
Midday (12-2 PM)
Workers take lunch breaks, so there is less activity. The overhead sun creates harsh shadows but illuminates the vat colors well. Hot in summer.
Fair
Afternoon (3-5 PM)
Workers return but the vats are partially in shadow. The smell intensifies in afternoon heat. Fewer tourists, which means less crowded terraces.
Quiet
Friday
Friday is the Islamic rest day. Many workers are at the mosque. Less activity in the vats but a quieter, more peaceful viewing experience.
Best Season
Spring (March-May) and autumn (September-November) offer comfortable temperatures. Summer visits can be challenging due to the combined heat and smell. Winter is pleasant but the tannery may have reduced activity during rainy days.
Photography Tips
1
The best light for photographing the dye pits is in the morning (9-11 AM) when the sun is directly overhead and illuminates the colors.
2
A wide-angle lens (16-35mm) captures the full scale of the tannery from the terraces above.
3
A telephoto lens (70-200mm) lets you capture close-up details of workers in the vats without disturbing them.
4
The circular stone vats filled with different colored dyes create a natural mosaic pattern that looks incredible from above.
5
Workers move between vats throughout the day, creating dynamic compositions. Be patient and wait for the right moment.
6
The leather drying on rooftops around the medina also makes for compelling photographs, especially from the Merenid Tombs viewpoint.
7
Always ask permission before photographing workers at close range. A tip of 10-20 MAD is customary.
8
The smell can be overwhelming -- a mint sprig held under your nose helps. Hold it with your non-camera hand.
What to Buy
The leather shops above the tannery terraces sell goods made from the leather processed below. Prices are often higher here due to the captive audience, but the quality can be excellent. Bargaining is essential.
Leather Bags
200-800 MADCrossbody bags, messenger bags, and handbags in a variety of colors. Check stitching quality and smell (natural leather should not smell of chemicals).
Babouche Slippers
80-250 MADThe iconic Moroccan pointed slippers in every color imaginable. Try on several pairs -- quality varies widely. The leather should be soft and flexible.
Leather Poufs
300-600 MADThe famous Moroccan floor cushions. They come unstuffed for easy transport. Available in natural tan, dyed colors, and embossed patterns.
Belts & Wallets
50-300 MADSimple leather belts and wallets make practical souvenirs. Check the hardware quality on buckles and zippers.
Leather Jackets
800-2,500 MADCustom-made leather jackets can be produced in 24-48 hours. Bring a jacket you like as a template for sizing.
Cushion Covers
150-400 MADEmbossed leather cushion covers with traditional Moroccan designs. Beautiful and easy to pack flat for travel.
Buying Tips
Natural leather has a distinctive organic smell. Synthetic or chemically treated leather smells like plastic or chemicals.
Check the stitching, zippers, and hardware. High-quality Fes leather goods should have even, tight stitching.
The shops at the tannery charge a premium. For better prices, shop in the leather souks (Souk Cherratine) where competition is higher.
Bargain firmly but respectfully. Start at 40% of the asking price and expect to settle around 60-70%.
Leather poufs should be made of genuine goat or camel leather. Ask to see the inside -- it should be natural leather, not fabric.
Practical Tips
The Smell
Accept the mint sprig offered by leather shops. Menthol balm under the nose also works. The smell is worst on hot summer afternoons.
What to Wear
Wear clothes you do not mind getting slightly smelly. The scent can cling to fabrics. Closed-toe shoes are essential for the slippery medina alleys nearby.
Pressure to Buy
Shopkeepers will show you their products after the terrace visit. Browse politely but do not feel pressured. A firm "no thank you" is sufficient.
Guides
A guide is very helpful for finding the tannery (the alleys are confusing). They can also explain the process in detail and negotiate prices for you.
Duration
Plan 30-45 minutes for viewing and browsing. Longer if you intend to shop seriously for leather goods.
Accessibility
The terraces are accessed by narrow, steep stairs inside the leather shops. Not suitable for wheelchairs or those with significant mobility issues.
Visit the Tanneries
Our guides know the best viewing terraces, can explain every step of the tanning process, and help you find the best leather goods at fair prices.
Quick Info
Hours8 AM - 6 PM daily
Entry FeeFree (via leather shops)
Best TimeMorning (9-11 AM)
Duration30-45 minutes
Age1,000+ years
LocationAin Azliten, Fes el-Bali
Location
Frequently Asked Questions
How bad is the smell at the Chouara Tannery?
The smell is strong, particularly from the pigeon dung vats used to soften the leather. Leather shops at the viewing terraces provide sprigs of fresh mint to hold under your nose, which helps significantly. The smell is worst on hot summer days and less intense in cooler months. Most visitors find it manageable once they have the mint.
Is the Chouara Tannery free to visit?
Access to the viewing terraces is technically free -- you enter through leather shops above the tannery who allow access in hopes you will browse their goods. A small tip (10-20 MAD) to the shopkeeper who guides you to the terrace is appreciated. You are not obligated to purchase anything, though browsing is expected as a courtesy.
What is the best time to visit the Chouara Tannery?
Morning (9-11 AM) offers the best light for photography and the most activity in the vats. Avoid Friday mornings when the tannery is quieter (Friday is the Islamic day of rest). The smell is also less intense in the morning compared to hot afternoons. Spring and autumn are the best seasons for comfortable visits.
Is it ethical to visit the tannery?
The tannery is a working industrial site that has operated for over 1,000 years. Tourism provides additional income for the workers and supports the continuation of traditional leather-making techniques. Be respectful of the workers -- ask before taking close-up photos, and recognize that the conditions are physically demanding.
How do I get to the Chouara Tannery?
The tannery is in the Ain Azliten quarter of the Fes el-Bali medina. From Bab Bou Jeloud, walk down Talaa Kebira past the Qarawiyyin Mosque and follow signs for the tannery (about 20-25 minutes). A guide is recommended as it is easy to get lost. Alternatively, ask any shopkeeper for directions to "les tanneries" -- it is the most asked-for destination in Fes.
Your Journey Awaits
Experience the Tanneries With a Local Expert
Our guides bring the tannery to life -- explaining every step of the ancient process, taking you to the best viewing spots, and helping you find exceptional leather goods at fair prices.